meat recipes

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Generic Sauces and curries

Tandoori roast

Thai curry

Laksa (Nigel Slater, Kitchen Diaries)

Garlic, ginger, chilli

Cashew satay sauce

Moroccan spices, dried fruit

Red peppers, tomatoes, paprika, cream or chèvre, chorizo

Tomato, olives, basil, cream

Lemon and black pepper


Port, orange, mushroom (8 May 2006)

Wild mushrooms, cream, truffle oil

Meat starch-based

Risotto with smoked sausage, cauliflower, chilli, fennel

Risotto with peas and ham



Meat pasta sauces

Lemon, cream, ham, olives (Roux Brothers)

Chicken strips, chèvre, red pepper, tomatoes

Spinach, bacon, nutmeg, cream


Spag bol


Duck and Goose

Confit of duck

Duck breast, crispy skin

A big 350g breast feeds two. Score the skin and fat with cuts 4-5mm apart, cutting just as far as the meat. Fry skinside down over a moderate heat to render out the fat, and crisp the skin. Keep draining the fat out. This takes about 10 minutes. Then a few minutes other way up. Allow it to rest a little then slice finely.

Duck breast with Sybil Kapoor’s marinade

This is a real favourite, from Taste. I use less sugar, and add the marinade to the sauce

Roast goose

Mark Hix in the Independent gives the following instructions. Take out all the fat from the body. Remove the legs, and slow-roast them, with all the fat, in a deep roasting pan. They cook in a similar way to a confit.

with sour cherries and rhubarb

with mango and ginger

with pickled plums

with peach slices and vodka (6 Mar 2007)

one peach for two, skinned, sliced, fried


Chicken and Guineau Fowl

Marinated chicken for barbecues

I use olive oil, garlic, lemon, thyme, black pepper

Stuffed baked chicken breasts

Cheese, ham, peppers, sundried tomatoes, olives, whatever

Chicken, shallots, tarragon, sherry

(Delia Smith, Summer cooking)

Pollo con mole

Chicken with spicy peanut sauce (14 Oct 2006)

Chicken with saffron almond sauce

Chicken, leeks, morels, cream, truffle oil

B’stilla (31 Mar 2006)

Traditionally this is very sweet, but this is not nice. I make a sauce with onion, garlic, saffron, ginger powder and a little cinnamon. Add chicken breasts and stock and cook gently for an hour. Strain sauce and reduce; let it cool and add egg yolk, Slice the chicken. Line a pie dish with buttered filo leaves, fill with the chicken, the onion and spices and sone fried chopped almonds. Whisk the egg white, add to the sauce, decant on the filling, fold over the ends of the filo leaves and bake for 30 mins at gas 4.

Chicken with 50 cloves

Pot-roast chicken, with garlic and herbs. The only problem with this recipe is you get a lot of chicken fat rendered down in the juices.

Chicken livers, chorizo, spices, cream

Chicken livers with shallots

Chicken livers in spiced flour, sautéed; wine or stock sauce


Chicken and Guineau Fowl, stuffings

Roasting chicken in the French style makes it very juicy. Do the first third of the roasting time on one breast side, second third on the other breast, the last breast-side up. Then rest upside down, to let the juices drain down into the meat.

Ciabatta is a nice bread to use for stuffing because the high gluten makes the crumbs retain a firm texture. Pine kernels seem to be obligatory.

Orvieto chicken

This is a simple but delicious stuffed roast chicken recipe from Alistair Little, Keep it Simple. The stuffing is potatoes, fennel, olive, giblets.

Black pudding, pine kernels, breadcrumbs

Prune and pine kernels

Orange and pine kernels (17 Sept 2006)

Sweet potato, chestnut, thyme

(Rosamund Grant, Hot Chefs)

Couscous, preserved lemon, pine kernels


Partridge, wood pigeon, quail, pheasant

Partridge with chestnuts and blackberries

(Roux Brothers)

Partridge wrapped in pancetta, with Savoy cabbage

(Alistair Little)

Panfried pigeon breasts

Best to cook them rare, to keep them tender and juicy.

Boned stuffed quail

I did this, once. I took about half an hour to bone each quail. I believe these days you can buy then boned and stuffed, in Waitrose. We once bought quail in Portugal; by contrast, these still had the full complement of innards, though we may have been spared the heads.



It’s hard to go wrong with lamb: rack is exquisitely tender, the slow cuts render down to a mouth-filling richness of both texture and flavour.

The unavoidable lamb and aubergine pairing may be largely cultural, sometimes it seems this is all they grow in the middle-east, but it must be true that the slight bitterness of aubergine is a foil to the sweetness of lamb.


Rack of lamb with herb and olive crust

Aubergine and lamb millefeuille

Aubergine and lamb in a 1000 other ways


Slow cooked shanks, herbs and olives

Slow cooked shanks, Indian or Persian spices


Remove the fat from 4 lamb chops, fry meat till brown. Take meat out then soften 1 shallot, 2 cloves garlic, some chilli, some blanched ginger. Add 5 small tomatoes, halved. Toast 1/2 tsp coriander and grind. Fry a pinch of cinnamon, cloves, 1/2 tsp turmeric, and add the spices and meat to the pan with a small pinch of saffron, a large bay leaf, several chopped mint leaves, 2oz red lentils, water to cover, 1/2-1 tsp pomegranate molasses. Simmer gently for 50 mins.

Cumberland hotpot

Colin’s mum’s recipe: lamb chops, black pudding, potatoes.

Kidneys with cream and green peppercorns

Haggis, neeps and tatties



Pork can be dry and tough, so beware of overcooking it. There’s a tendency in many recipes to specify overlong cooking times, to ensure killing all the parasites. In fact pork has only to reach a temperature of 67C to be safe.

It’s strange that the same loin meat, roasted as a joint, can be beautifully moist and tender, but cut into chops can be tough and dry. So we don’t do chops.

On the other hand, long and slow cooking creates beauties out of the cheaper cuts, belly and shoulder, and I think these are really the most delicious.


Sausages with onion and pearl barley

Pork belly and 5-spice, braised

Pork shoulder, slow roast "24 hour"

Hugh FW has a fantastic Chinese 5-spice style marinade for slow-roast pork

Roast pork loin with crackling

Pork goulash

Tenderloin with ham and sage

Tenderloin with lemon, cream, pepper

Faggots, onion and Guinness, barley; green split peas

Pork with shitake mushrooms, oyster sauce

Pork with prunes and cream

Spanish lentil and pork stew (Sainsbury book)


Beef and Venison

I have put these together because you would think they are similar meats and deserve similar treatment. But although the cuts and cooking techniques may be similar, we don’t think they are so similar in taste, though we haven’t quite put our finger on how they differ. Venison is leaner and finer-grained, and seems to ask for fruit; beef doesn’t.


Steak with red wine, shallot, cream

Steak with roquefort sauce

Steak with tomato and chilli sauce

Steak with mushrooms, truffle oil

Steak with breadcrumbs crust

Venison with chestnut and blackberry

Venison with myrtilles sauce

Venison with chocolate sauce

Venison with orange and lapsang souchon (David Everitt Matthias)

Lomo saltado : strips with red pepper, tomatoes, onion, chilli

Drink Cerveza Cusquena and dream of 4k passes

Beef stroganoff

Braised beef or oxtail, pearl barley or wheat kernels

Oxtail (21 Nov 2006)

Steak and kidney : use Guinness or add oyster sauce


Rabbit and Hare

They both bounce around fields but that’s where the similarity ends. Hare is scarily bloody, and it's a challenge to prepare, which is just as well, as only the brave cook and committed gourmet deserve such a treat. Hares are rare, so make the most of it. By contrast there are 5 billion of rabbits in Gloucestershire alone. So you can eat lots of the little buggers, with a clear conscience. It seems fitting serve them with other local wild food, such as wild garlic leaves.


Stuffed saddle of rabbit (10 Mar 2007)

You can’t very easily stuff a rabbit saddle. It’s hardly worth boning the thing – it is easier to cook it on the bone. I sit it on the stuffing and make a foil parcel, or you could use bacon, ham or vine leaves. Rabbit is a lean meat so don’t over cook it. I find 20 mins at gas 5 is right (this is at the top of our oven, which may be more like gas 6)

Rabbit with wild garlic

Braised rabbit legs, or confit

The confit treatment is perhaps best

Saddle of hare in cream (Joyce Molyneax, Elizabeth David)

Hare in chocolate sauce (Joyce Molyneax)